Paintball hopper/loader selection

There are woodball and speedball guns. Woodsball guns are typically not electronic, mostly waterproof, and shoot maybe 6-15 balls per second. Some people use $2 gravity fed hoppers, which you may have to shake in case a ball gets stuck and can feed at about 6-8 balls per second. If you want to shoot about 10+ bps, you will want an electronic hopper so balls don't get jammed.

Speedball guns use electronics to shoot more rapidly and need an electronic hopper to typically shoot 12 balls per second or faster, or around 30 balls per second if the game is uncapped.

Generally speaking, the Dye Rotor, Virtue Spire, and Pinokio are great modern choices for speedball tournaments. Good less expensive options are old Vlocitys (preferably with a Gangstar, Select Force, or Virtue chip that won't make it force feed balls for more than a few seconds to save on batteries), old Torques, though those constantly spin and you hear it.

Here is a pretty comprehensive list of the specs of most speedball hoppers.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AnYLGbkyTL21dGRnODl2azRuSVlyMFdrNnFHU0lValE&usp=sharing

Rotor v3 Method of operation: ? /Speed 50+
Pros: (has velcro for battery)-jams occasionally, but most durable and low profile, can get a 250 ball extension for ~$25 + shipping. Waterproof board. Tough plastic. 

Cons: Expensive. One person commented that initial feed speed took a few seconds to get up to a fast speed feed. People say is can jam occasionally, maybe once every 20,000 balls. May not work well with reballs.

1 is bad/ 5 is great

Weight:
Speed: 50+  (not rated since there is a cap at 12 bps)
1. Profile (taller and bigger is worse): 4 (2 high capacity shell)
2. Capacity (higher is better) ~188 actual (200 claim) (250 claim with high capacity top shell): 3 (high capacity nose/5 )
3. Likeliness to not break paint (Has adjustable settings. People have broken paint in Rotors, probably with high tension though): 4
4. easiness to break down and clean (5 seconds toolless): 5
5. Likeliness of a jam (rare, but sometimes): 4
6. Likeliness to have the shell break (dropped off 3 story building, can withstand direct flame, waterproof board): 5
7. Likeliness customer support will fix an issue: 2?
8. Battery (life 80,000 shots): 5
9. Cost ($149 husstlepaintball.com/HC shell +$25): 1
33/44


Pinokio - Method of operation: bend sensor/Speed 30+
Pros: Simple. Works. Lifetime warranty on internals, official one year warranty on shells minus your shipping cost to them ~$10. Probably the least likely to jam of current markers since balls can spin freely even when the feedneck is full of balls 20 cases of 20,000 balls so 400,000 balls. Uses 9 volts instead of AA, so you only have to carry 9 V batteries in your bag. Less expensive than Rotor or Spire. Double tap the power button to feed. Can spray water inside it to clean it out.

Cons: One I had with the original black shell developed a problem with the bend sensor, so it stopped working. My shells cracked in nearly all of the places where screws were screwed into as well. High profile. Taller than Rotor, shorter, though way longer than a Vlocity.

Comments: After not using it for 4 years, I realized they had a replacement warranty so I wrote them a letter asking for a new bend sensor, and asking if they had spare shells, updated board, and a speed feed to replace the lid which I had lost. They gave me an entirely new smoke loader with a very nice Pinokio speedfeed. So I have the original black nose cone and a smoke hopper, but I don't care. It seems pretty nice. The old board was 20+ bps, an upgraded P-board does 30+, but battery life isn't quite as long.

Weight:

Batteries: 3 AA
Speed 30+
Profile (Biggest loader I am aware of): 2 (1 w nose cone)
Capacity (higher is better) 245 actual/~400 w nose: 5
Likeliness to not break paint (No adjustability, but it supposedly just doesn't break paint.): 5
Easiness to break down and clean (toolless nose removal, but you have screws to take it all the wa apart): 3
Likeliness of a jam (supposedly does not jam. Balls can spin freely even when the feedneck is full.): 5
Likeliness to have the shell break (Most of the areas where the screws screwed into plastic molded nuts cracked on my original black Pinokio, but it held together because of the nose cone, unlike my Vlocity Jr.): 2
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue (I sent it in under the lifetime warranty with a super nice letter and Pinokio replaced the hopper. I was amazed and super loved them.): 5
Battery life (20 cases of 20,000 balls so 400,000 balls): 5
Cost ($99 www.ansgear.com): 3
Total 35/40

Virtue Spire
Pros:
Cons: There may be complications with a low battery.

Batteries: 3 AA
Speed
Profile (taller and bigger is worse):
Capacity (higher is better):
Likeliness to not break paint (or adjustability):
easiness to break down and clean (quick and toolless is best):
Likeliness of a jam:
Likeliness to have the shell break:
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue:Total  /35

Empire prophecy Z2 (V2 is a budget hopper)- I hated earlier versions of the Empire and Halo hoppers because of the shells breaking and frequent jams, but users love this hopper. Pretty different internals from those old hoppers though, and it looks good. Doesn't have as good of a battery life as a Pinokio, Rotor, or Torque. Has 240 round shell upgrade.

Weight:
BPS:
Profile (taller and bigger is worse):
Capacity (higher is better) : 1
Likeliness to not break paint (or adjustability): ?4
easiness to break down and clean (quick and toolless is best):
Likeliness of a jam: 4
Likeliness to have the shell break: 4
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue: 1
Battery life: 3
Total  /40

Torque-constantly spins, and slips if there is resistance by balls not feeding, while turned on and makes some noise, but hasn't jammed on me. Still using batteries from 2008, but I haven't used it much. Low profile. I think the shells on this are extremely durable, since most cracks happen where there are screws and it it toolless. The shells are more durable than the than Halo and Pinokio. Unfortunately the company is out of business, so new shells would be hard to find if you ran over it with a dump truck.

Profile (taller and bigger is worse):
Capacity (higher is better) ~160: 1
Likeliness to not break paint (or adjustability): 4
easiness to break down and clean (quick and toolless is best): 4
Likeliness of a jam: 4
Likeliness to have the shell break: 5
Battery life: 4
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue:Total  23/35

Vlocity Jr w Gangstar chip-You can set the settings to be less of battery hogs than constantly grinding like the stock board. Has a high profile, higher than a Pinokio, though shorter in the back than a Pinokio, and with less capicty. Large mouth for feeding balls. 180 ball capacity. shells and feedneck crack after use..

Profile (taller and bigger is worse):
Capacity (higher is better):
Likeliness to not break paint (or adjustability):
easiness to break down and clean (quick and toolless is best):
Likeliness of a jam:
Likeliness to have the shell break:
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue:Total  /35

Vlocity-smaller mouth but 190 ball capacity

Fasta-Bend sensor
 at 30BPS (there is a slower 20+ bps Fasta as well). Operates with a bend sendor like the Pinokio. It is pretty cheap, but I'm not sure if it has the same warranty. Thin plastic feedneck is known to crack.



Halo B-Uses Eyes
Pros: used in some top tournaments around 2004ish. Fast with the right board. Has rip drive to use when batteries were dying, which I liked.
Cons: Shells cracked easily. Heavy. Jammed too often. Poor-mid battery life.

Profile (taller and bigger is worse):
Capacity (higher is better):
Likeliness to not break paint (or adjustability):
easiness to break down and clean (quick and toolless is best):
Likeliness of a jam:
Likeliness to have the shell break:
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue:Total  /35

Empire B-Sound activated




Hoppers I've used

Torque

The good: What would you want in a hopper? One that doesn't jam, but has a reverse button just in case, has toolless disassembly of very few pieces, and has a thick plastic that is not as likely to crack as most other hoppers, and great battery life.

The bad: Although toolless, the Torque is kind of hard to disassemble because you have to push a button inside the hopper and flex the back plastic around some other plastic nubs, but it will likely get easier with practice. It also ALWAYS spins and makes noise you can hear from up to 3 feet away when turned on. The wheel intentionally slips when the balls aren't being shot out, and you can hear the motor whir it a little, so if you rely on super stealth... that may concern you. It is probably a bit heavier than the Vlocity Jr and Halo/Empire due to the thicker plastic (which I'm fine with if that means it won't crack).

It has no eyes, but doesn't need them due to its simplicity, and has good reviews. Good luck getting one though since they are discontinued. No spring to hold the plastic door open. Not a huge deal though. I have had two 9 volt batteries in this hopper for 4 years, only using them a hand full of times, but they are still going strong. I deduct that the battery draw when off is super low, which I like.

$25 used


Vlocity Jr. with Gangstar chip upgrade

The good: One of the lightest hoppers on the market. The Gangstar chip has a bunch of adjustable settings that, among other things like BPS speed selection, allows the motor to turn off after 12 seconds when balls aren't being fed to reduce battery consumption and eliminate hopper motor noise when not in use. Clear feedneck lets you know if a ball is about to be fed.

The bad: It is lightweight because of thin plastic, thin plastic which breaks. There are a lot of screw and nuts held by thin plastic which breaks. There are lots of small screw holes for paint to get into, so cleaning it can sometimes be annoying. The stock Vlocity and Vlocity Jr. boards (non Gangstar) allegedly eat your 9 volt batteries. My feedneck got a crack in it from a feedneck clamp being too tight, but the plastic is strong enough there for me not to worry.

It is one of the lightest hoppers, however, I don't like how easily the shells on this loader break due to the thin plastic. I've had nuts and screws come out and the plastic crack, which I patched up with super glue. However, I do REALLY like the performance of this loader which is customizable with the Gangstar chip. I have it set up to spin at 15 BPS because guns are capped at 13. The faster it spins, the more likely balls will popcorn, around inside which would be bad. I also have it set to turn off and not spin and use the battery when balls are not moving for more than 5 seconds. So it is quiet enough for woodsball. The loudmouth is larger than the standard small lid, so fewer balls fall out when filling with a pod. It does have a high profile though which may make it a little easier to get shot. I had a jam one time and I just had to shake it a bit.

You need a screwdriver to take this apart and paint can get in all the screw holes. The clear feedneck is cool, so you know if there is a ball there, also has a superficial crack in the plastic in mine and many others. Even if it is held together with duct tape, I'll still really like this hopper. I'd pick up another used one without cracks in a heartbeat for $20 if I could, if someone else would sell it. I have the Gangstar 1 chip and have no reason to upgrade to Gangstar v2. I know Select Force is also a popular upgrade. There are small pieces to loose, like nuts, screws, and the ever annoying spring to keep the door open until it is slammed shut. Not an issue if you use a speed feed.

Common modifications include black electical or duct tape on the front to hold the shell together because the plastic breaks. People also saw off a part of the feedneck for a lower profile. There are speedfeeds people add. There are two mouth sizes. I have the larger one and liked it, at least until the shell broke apart during a game.

$25-40 used

Pinokio

The good: Large ball capacity and super large capacity with the nose cone. Stronger plastic than Vlocity and Halo B. Great battery life. A person I talked to that used it said it has worked great for him.

The bad: My internals broke under normal use. It has a huge profile.

I wanted to like this hopper though it had a large profile. It feeds balls when a ball pushes back a tab stuck at a 45 degree angle in the feedneck and the tab flips back up. I found this system not to be reliable. The plastic of the hopper seemed fine though.

$50 used


Halo B

The good: I liked that it had the rip drive upgrade to manually feed balls if the batteries died. Happened once. it was kind of an experience. I lost to the guy who didn't have to break to spin it though. You can buy them cheap used.

The bad: The shells crack. There are a lot of small nuts, screws, and springs. Cleaning it can be annoying since you have so many screws and screw holes which can attract paint. It would jam occasionally.

Borrow it if you have to, but I wouldn't buy it. Too much maintenance and not enough plastic durability and paint feed reliability.

$20-35 used


Empire B

Same pros and cons of the Halo B except it had better battery life because it only spun once it heard a shot fired. Supposedly some quiet guns, some spool threads, didn't trigger it sometimes though according to a friend. This is about on par with the Halo, maybe better if you like better battery life and have a gun that makes it fire.

$25-35 used


Egg

Pros: cheap
Cons: Awkward, large profile, plastic can break


Standard 200 round gravity fed hopper

Pros: $5, no batteries, can take a beating, can get wet.
Cons: You may have to shake it to get the balls to come down. Can't shoot too fast or else the balls will get stuck until you shake everything. Usually works fine for the Tippman 98.

Using a gravity fed on an electronic marker can be annoying because you will have to shake it the entire time to make sure balls feed. Generally fine if you are just shooting a few shots at a time with a Spyder or Tippmann, but not for anything too competitive.

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The Virtue Spire seems to be an expensive, but good option that rivals the Dye Rotor. It claims to not break fragile paint, feed quickly, and be easy to dissaemble.


I haven't used the Dye Rotor, but people that use it like it. It is a little heavier, but has a low profile, is great on battery like, 50,000 rounds supposedly. It is often times rated as the best hopper.
It is expensive though. $100 used, $180 new.

Prophesy-sound activated, proactive

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=720187

Paintball barrel selection

Mike from Techpb.com had some thoughts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=NwN03gMASew

Barrels impact the gun performance a lot. Tech PB likes these barrels in Florida where it is hot and humid.

Boring a ball is when you take a paintball and place it in several barrels until you find one where it it just large enough to get stuck about half an inch down the back of the barrel (off the gun).  This is the traditional way of picking a barrel since it uses less air in the long run since air is not escaping around the sides of the balls.

The case can be made that traditional boring isn't good because some balls later on will be compressed and more oblong instead of circular or swell throughout the day. If they get stuck in the barrel, they can explode in the barrel. When that happens, the paint gets on balls that come out and causes them to become innacurate for quite some time. Shooting though it doesn't always clear it out. You have to clean out your barrel with a barrel swab or squeegee.

Industry standard is .689. (Balls can break inside it though.) Traditional boring may have you select around this size.

Planet Eclipse uses .693 and people like their barrels.
BobLong Marq .691
 Dye UL Two piece .692
.693 CP 1 Piece 14"
.694 Bob Long Marq two piece (if humid)

Overboring means less broken paint. Oblong balls are less likely to break.

If you bore in the morning, and it gets warmer, the balls will get larger.
overboring means better consistency, though a bit less air efficient.
The Pros overbore.

12-14" barrels are the standard. Longer than that, like a 16", and the ball may just be bouncing around.

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Unicycles

Unicycles come in different sizes.

Small wheels are good for precision movements. Big wheels let you travel faster, which is helpful in a parade.

Torker's 20" wheel on the Unistar DX will fit a 26"-32" inseam
Torker's 24" wheel on the Unistar DX will fit a 29.5"-35.5" inseam
http://www.torkerusa.com/bikes/unicycles/2012-unistar-dx


Some unicycles with large rims/wheels and thin tires are good for faster speed. These unicycles are generally around $100-$250.

Unicycles with smaller rims/wheels and super fat tires are better for bouncing and doing tricks. I rode a Torker DX and was able to jump quite a bit on it because the wheel was way fatter than most other unicycles.

The Torker DX retails at $329 and $349. A dealer said it costs them $230 and they have to pay shipping to the store. I have heard that the rim can taco if you land a large jump and the rim is hard to replace. I saw this new on eBay for $279 with free shipping.

I looked at a forum and 'Hunter' and 'Kris Holms' were also brands that were mentioned.

How to fix a 2008 13" unibody MacBook's disabled wireless card with the 10.8.5 update

Don’t install the software update to OSX 10.8.5 if you have the 2.0 Core 2 Duo 13" unibody MacBook from late 2008. It will likely stop the wireless card from working. (The late 2008-2012 15" MacBooks don't seem to have this problem.)

The wireless card works fine on 10.8.4, but not 10.8.5, so we have to downgrade. If you have a better fix, let me know. This is what I successfully did after chatting with an Apple Genius who verified the wireless card hardware was fine with a ping test when booted up to the drive.

 

First, save a time machine backup of this computer on an external drive to keep any programs and files.

Then you will have to  either burn, or mount the ‘Install OS X Mountain Lion’ file onto a DVD or an external drive so it becomes bootable.

When the computer is turned off and with the ‘Install OS X Mountain Lion’ in the DVD in the computer or the USB/Firewire/Thunderbolt drive attached, turn the computer on while pressing option for the first 60 seconds, or until you see a list of drives, one of which will be a CD or External drive for ‘Mac OSX’.

Choose the Disk Utility option and format the computer’s hard drive by selecting on, generally, the top drive on the left side of the Disk Utility.  I recommend naming the drive with the size of the hard drive.

Exit out of the disk utility after the format and then “Reinstall Mountain Lion”. This will take maybe 5 minutes to copy the information from the install file to the hard drive, then it will take about another 20 minutes to install it.

Make sure the hard drive with your time machine backup is connected to the computer and powered on.

After the operating system in reinstalled, and you click through a few screens to select Location and stuff, a screen will ask if you want to transfer data and let you select from where. Pick the “From a disk” from the options. Select your time machine name (it will be the name of the drive) and click ‘Next’. It may take about an hour per 100 GB of stuff needed to transfer with USB 2.0.

Once installed, you may update everything from ‘System Update’ except 10.8.5 because that may likely disable the wireless card.

A copy of the ‘10.8.4 combo update’ can be found on the Apple support site. Download, then click on that to install it.