Wednesday, January 29, 2014

How to pick (and test the life of) a battery

One cheap and awesome thing you can get is a battery tester to see what the voltage is of a mystery battery. I got this battery/volt tester/voltmeter on Amazon for $4.

If you really want to know at what point a battery is dead, for a particular device, use the voltmeter to see at what voltage the battery is when a battery dies in that device. So when the smoke alarm starts beeping, take the battery out, put it on the voltmeter battery tester, and note down the voltage at which that device thinks a battery is dead.

You may notice that different devices have different dead points. For example, I have a paintball hopper that uses two nine volt alkaline batteries and they test at 6.5 volts and still work (though it is not as powerful as it was when the batteries were full and has a higher probability of jamming if I overload it). If a smoke detector dies at, say, 8.1 volts, you still have life left in those smoke detector batteries, and batteries are expensive. I think a lot of partially charged alkaline batteries are thrown out each year because of this lack of knowledge that I didn't realize until I got a voltmeter.

Capacity is important. The larger the capacity, the longer it should power your device. Different technologies and brands have different mAh capacities.
Alkalines seem to have between a 1000 and 1400 milliampere (mAh) hour life. Lithiums seem to be worth twice the price at about 3000 mAh.



9 volt alkaline cart (on my voltmeter)
Good = ~9 volts-7.8 volts
low power = 7.7 volts - 6 volts
Replace = below 6 volts

9.6 Volt NiHM Powerex
Full = 10.42 volts (tested on a fully charged 230 mAh Powerex

What battery should I buy?

Info

Alkaline batteries discharge their voltage linearly. Rechargeable batteries initially drop to their rated voltage, then hold that rated voltage for a long time, then drop suddenly when they are dying. I propose that how dead something is is relative to the lowest voltage a battery can be and the device still operate. The back of the voltmeter says

A general 1.5 volt alkaline AA chart according to my voltmeter.
New = 1.52-1.57 volts*(as I've tested)
Good = 1.5 v - 1.28 v
low power =  1.27-1.15 volts
replace = below 1.15 volts (76% of rated capacity)


Starting AA voltages for new alkaline batteries by brand and age. Newer batteries tend to have more remaining voltage.

Brand            Expiration date     Voltage           Birth date    Age       Shelf life left  Qty  Shelf Life
CVS              N/L                      1.52                 © 2009...    4-5 yrs?  N/L                  1     ?
Kirkland Sig March 2016          1.52-1.54 (+one fluctuating battery) 2 years            5      ?
Energizer      March 2016          1.54-1.55        ?                 ?              2 years             3      ?
Rayovac        Dec 2016             1.55                Dec 2009    4 years    3 years             1      7 yrs
Rayovac        Dec 2018             1.55-1.57*        Dec 2011    2 years    5 years             5      7 yrs

Different devices require a minimum charge. A good way of knowing what that is is to take a battery tester to it when the device stops working to see what the minimum volt measurement for that device is.
For example:
Three Alkaline batteries at 0.99 volts each could not turn on a digital clock.
An old digital camera would not turn on at 1.4 volts. A rechargable battery at 1.2 v did not turn it on. So that is a super short battery life on that device.So I took those batteries out and used them in other devices.

A review on Amazon said that the devices a reviewer used would say an alkaline battery was dead at 1.4 volts (like the battery hungry camera I had). I don't know if 1.2 v rechargeable batteries would power a device that required 1.4 volts. Most cameras I've had since 2006 have been able to use rechargeable batteries though.

Though you can argue a battery is dead when a device can't use it anymore, though it may still power a different device, like a flashlight.

A 1.2 volt AA rechargeable battery freshly charged may start off around 1.3-4 volts, initially drop to 1.2 volts and stay there for a long while, about 85%-15% of its charge, and will be on the quick path to dying at 1.0 volts or so.

Here are some rough estimates, but maybe use these as a start as you get to know your battery. Look on the side of your rechargable battery to see what it's rated voltage is. Here is a guide for a standard 1.2 rechargeable AA.

A general rechargeable 1.2 volt NiMH AA chart


85%-100% =1.4 volts> and >1.25 volts
15%-85% = 1.10> and >1.25 volts (a bit under 1.2 v is still fine)
0%-15% = < 1.10 volts (about when the steep drop off may start)

While most devices that take AA batteries work with both 1.2 v rechargeable AA and 1.5 v alkaline batteries, I know of at least one camera circa 1996, a Japanese Minolta Dimage 7, that only showed low battery and refused to fully turn on with batteries at 1.3 v, but worked fine when the batteries were at 1.5 volts. That's when you get a new camera, because you can only use alkaline batteries that get to the 1.5 v and only from the 100%-90% of their supposed rated life. 1.35v / 1.5v = .9 Which means only 10% of the battery life was drained before the camera couldn't use the battery anymore. Kind of a waste.

This is a real concern for waste because other devices can use the remaining 90% of the charge, but I know I'd normally assume the batteries were fully dead and throw them out. Maybe that's why our moms kept half dead batteries in the refrigerator growing up; they would work in other devices.



Rechargable battery brand
Powerex was recommended to me in 2012 at Batteries Plus.
9v = 230 mAh
AA = 2700 mAh

Why? The mAh on these is among the highest of any brand, meaning more battery life per charge. I tried Duracel and Energizer with a rapid charger, but neither held their charge after maybe 15 charges on a 15 minute charger. A slow trickle charger seemed to bring them back to life.

There are some with low discharges, which hold more voltage over storage time, but they may come at the expense of a little capacity.

Best charger?
Apparently the rapid chargers can overcharge and burn out batteries. They are pretty convenient though.

In 2012, I went to Batteries Plus and asked for the most versatile charger at the best value. They sold me the 'Nurech-8' which will charge 4 x AAA, AA, C, D and/or two 9V batteries at a time. The user has to manually set the length of time of the charge, option A for small capacities, and option B for larger capacities. The battery life isn't really smart monitored, but maybe that's just one thing less to go wrong. I do feel a little bad about overcharging on option A if I am recharging a battery drained to 80% since it may overcharge it if I don't remember/set an alarm to manually take it out. Maybe it's not really an issue.

Option A will charge the batteries for 4.5 hours. Option B will charge for up to 9.5 hours. I don't know if there is a safety timer for 9 V.

9V NiMH 180 mAh takes 16 hours to charge. I use the 230 mAh Powerex 9 volt batteries, and leave them in there for over a day if they are dead dead. I can check on the voltage, but I'm not sure if taking them out resets the safety timer (if there is one). So while I'm not going to say it's the easiest one to manage, it works well.

I have been eyeballing this battery charger on Amazon that claims it can even recharge alkaline batteries up to 80% of their original charge.


Sunday, December 15, 2013

How to set up a new Mac (recommended applications)

Here is one approach for setting up a new computer if you had any software available to you. Please give any feedback.

Mavericks is a free upgrade. iLife should come stock. Anti-virus is an option. I have found AV programs like Sophos to be more annoying than helpful, but I think other people should install AV to prevent passing unscanned files. Any favorite Anti-Virus programs?

1. CleanApp-This will help uninstall applications that have been installed after CleanApp was installed.

Browsers
Safari isn't my favorite browser. It doesn't have a lot of extensions to customize it.

1. Firefox-Add AdBlock Plus and select the 'Block High Risk Websites', add Tab Mix Plus and select the option for 3 multi-row and reduce minimum tab size to about 80 pixels. Add Delicious bookmarks (or another crossplatform bookmark app). SoThink video downloader lets you download news video if you are on the news. Sometime links open in a window that doesn't

2. Chrome-Add Adblock Plus and select 'Block High Risk Websites'

(3. Opera can be another browser option, though some formatting stuff in Google Drive doesn't work. Not super customizable.)

Download Flash Player, Shockwave Player, Adobe Reader (if you don't have Adobe Acrobat) for Firefox.

Now time for the ideal apps that do stuff

1.  Microsoft Office (Duh)
2. Adobe CS6 (Duh)
3. Audacity (audio recording) http://audacity.sourceforge.net/
4. Final Cut Pro (video)
5. VMWare Fusion (To install Windows and Linux if you don't want to only do dual boot)
6. Adobe Acrobat Pro (Lets you do some editing to .pdf docs)

Playback

1. VLC (plays nearly any format of video file. Can do audio files, but not as user friendly as iTunes. Can skip sometimes, but it is reasonably customizable, I go with a dark border and can turn captions on and off easily)
2. Maybe DivX (though be careful on the additional programs that may come with it. I may have picked up the horrible Bing Search.conduit from this)  icefilms.info likes it, but most links will play without it using a flash player. I do not have a DivX player installed on my refreshed computer.
3. Perian 1.2.3 (updates Quicktime components to run more video files I believe, possibly .wma)

Potentially helpful or interesting things

1. PTH Pasteboard 4.4 (Remembers a list of things you have copied. Version 4.3 Doesn't auto open for me. I did add the .prefPane to auto run in Preferences, so as soon as you manually open Preferences, it auto opens PTH Pasteboard. Annoying, but not as annoying as not having it run once you start using it.)
2. UnRarX (Opens .rar files)
3. Transmission (can help download some large files)
4. Cinch 1.0.6-(Adds snapping of windows sides of the screen like in Windows 7) to Install it, you have to download XQuartz which may or may not slow down the system
5. CarbonCopyCloner (seemed to have less issues than SuperDuper in 2012)
6. Audio Hijack Pro-hijacks the audio of an application and allows you to mute or really boost the max volume of an application, like hijack Firefox to increase the max volume of a YouTube video to make it way louder even when everything else is maxxed out. It also records application audio.
7. MiniBattery Logger-documents battery charge, so you know how long your battery lasts or how long it takes to charge
8. Geekbench-tests speed of computer

To change default programs to open a type of file, right click on the file, get info, and you can change the default application there.

You can copy an entire iPhoto library to an external drive, and copy it from the external drive to your new install in the correct Pictures folder. It will keep the Albums you've created as well. AirDrop doesn't work well for large files >~5 GB. It can time out.

Friday, December 13, 2013

Electronic Paintball Gun Comparison

From 2006-2010, I bought, traded, and resold electronic paintball guns.

Electronic paintball guns use a battery, circuit board, solenoid (which controls air flow to move the bolt which slides back and forth manually pushing the paintball forward), and a regulator that controls the air flow that then pushes the paintball out at 280 feet per second, the general field speed limit.

There are two general styles of paintball guns, also known as markers, spool valve and poppit valves.

Spool Valves
Pros
They are usually more quiet, which is good for sneaking up on someone, but bad for sound activated hoppers. They sometimes have less barrel rise though than poppit marker.
Cons
Spool valves are a little more maintenance. it takes more time to disassemble them, take DOW33 lube (Sleek lube is the standard) and rub it on the 3+ o-rings so they have a good seal. It gets kid of greasy.  Generally speaking, they are more likely to have problems in cold weather.

Examples: Shocker SFT and NXT, Proto anything (Proto Rail, Reflex, PM5-8), Dye anything (DM4-14), MacDev Droid, Clone.

Here are some paintball companies

Angel-These paintball markers were known for using low air pressure and could shoot very fragile paint without breaking it. The markers were not easy to tech by owners and often had to be sent to a professional gun tech. They used to have a lot of banners with hot girls holding their guns. It was a common sight player got used to at competitions. Though since out of business, Angel used to sponsor the Team 'Joy Division' which allegedly refrigerated their paintballs which made them more brittle, too brittle for other guns to shoot without breaking in the gun.

Smart Parts-Team Dynasty was very well known. They shot the Shocker SFT and NXT with custom bodies and bolts. Ton Ton had a special frame.

DM12

Thursday, December 12, 2013

MacBook VMware Windows 7 Geekbench tests with different processor allocations

MacBook VMware Windows 7 Geekbench tests with different processor allocations

In a dual core computer running Windows 7 though VMWare Fusion 6, what are the Geekbench 3 benchmarks for OSX 10.9 and Windows 7?

MacBook 2.66 Core 2 Duo/4GB 1067MHz

Both processors routed to Windows 7
(Mac Single Core 1195/ Multi-Core 1507) 56% of not running a VM
(Windows Single Core 1349/Multi-Core 2452)

1 processor to Windows 7
(Mac Single Core 1444/ Multi-core 2395)  89% of not running a VM
(Windows Single Core 1306/Multi-Core 1305)

Not running a Virtual Machine
(Mac Single Core 1490 /Multi-core 2672)

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Paintball hopper/loader selection

There are woodball and speedball guns. Woodsball guns are typically not electronic, mostly waterproof, and shoot maybe 6-15 balls per second. Some people use $2 gravity fed hoppers, which you may have to shake in case a ball gets stuck and can feed at about 6-8 balls per second. If you want to shoot about 10+ bps, you will want an electronic hopper so balls don't get jammed.

Speedball guns use electronics to shoot more rapidly and need an electronic hopper to typically shoot 12 balls per second or faster, or around 30 balls per second if the game is uncapped.

Generally speaking, the Dye Rotor, Virtue Spire, and Pinokio are great modern choices for speedball tournaments. Good less expensive options are old Vlocitys (preferably with a Gangstar, Select Force, or Virtue chip that won't make it force feed balls for more than a few seconds to save on batteries), old Torques, though those constantly spin and you hear it.

Here is a pretty comprehensive list of the specs of most speedball hoppers.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AnYLGbkyTL21dGRnODl2azRuSVlyMFdrNnFHU0lValE&usp=sharing

Rotor v3 Method of operation: ? /Speed 50+
Pros: (has velcro for battery)-jams occasionally, but most durable and low profile, can get a 250 ball extension for ~$25 + shipping. Waterproof board. Tough plastic. 

Cons: Expensive. One person commented that initial feed speed took a few seconds to get up to a fast speed feed. People say is can jam occasionally, maybe once every 20,000 balls. May not work well with reballs.

1 is bad/ 5 is great

Weight:
Speed: 50+  (not rated since there is a cap at 12 bps)
1. Profile (taller and bigger is worse): 4 (2 high capacity shell)
2. Capacity (higher is better) ~188 actual (200 claim) (250 claim with high capacity top shell): 3 (high capacity nose/5 )
3. Likeliness to not break paint (Has adjustable settings. People have broken paint in Rotors, probably with high tension though): 4
4. easiness to break down and clean (5 seconds toolless): 5
5. Likeliness of a jam (rare, but sometimes): 4
6. Likeliness to have the shell break (dropped off 3 story building, can withstand direct flame, waterproof board): 5
7. Likeliness customer support will fix an issue: 2?
8. Battery (life 80,000 shots): 5
9. Cost ($149 husstlepaintball.com/HC shell +$25): 1
33/44


Pinokio - Method of operation: bend sensor/Speed 30+
Pros: Simple. Works. Lifetime warranty on internals, official one year warranty on shells minus your shipping cost to them ~$10. Probably the least likely to jam of current markers since balls can spin freely even when the feedneck is full of balls 20 cases of 20,000 balls so 400,000 balls. Uses 9 volts instead of AA, so you only have to carry 9 V batteries in your bag. Less expensive than Rotor or Spire. Double tap the power button to feed. Can spray water inside it to clean it out.

Cons: One I had with the original black shell developed a problem with the bend sensor, so it stopped working. My shells cracked in nearly all of the places where screws were screwed into as well. High profile. Taller than Rotor, shorter, though way longer than a Vlocity.

Comments: After not using it for 4 years, I realized they had a replacement warranty so I wrote them a letter asking for a new bend sensor, and asking if they had spare shells, updated board, and a speed feed to replace the lid which I had lost. They gave me an entirely new smoke loader with a very nice Pinokio speedfeed. So I have the original black nose cone and a smoke hopper, but I don't care. It seems pretty nice. The old board was 20+ bps, an upgraded P-board does 30+, but battery life isn't quite as long.

Weight:

Batteries: 3 AA
Speed 30+
Profile (Biggest loader I am aware of): 2 (1 w nose cone)
Capacity (higher is better) 245 actual/~400 w nose: 5
Likeliness to not break paint (No adjustability, but it supposedly just doesn't break paint.): 5
Easiness to break down and clean (toolless nose removal, but you have screws to take it all the wa apart): 3
Likeliness of a jam (supposedly does not jam. Balls can spin freely even when the feedneck is full.): 5
Likeliness to have the shell break (Most of the areas where the screws screwed into plastic molded nuts cracked on my original black Pinokio, but it held together because of the nose cone, unlike my Vlocity Jr.): 2
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue (I sent it in under the lifetime warranty with a super nice letter and Pinokio replaced the hopper. I was amazed and super loved them.): 5
Battery life (20 cases of 20,000 balls so 400,000 balls): 5
Cost ($99 www.ansgear.com): 3
Total 35/40

Virtue Spire
Pros:
Cons: There may be complications with a low battery.

Batteries: 3 AA
Speed
Profile (taller and bigger is worse):
Capacity (higher is better):
Likeliness to not break paint (or adjustability):
easiness to break down and clean (quick and toolless is best):
Likeliness of a jam:
Likeliness to have the shell break:
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue:Total  /35

Empire prophecy Z2 (V2 is a budget hopper)- I hated earlier versions of the Empire and Halo hoppers because of the shells breaking and frequent jams, but users love this hopper. Pretty different internals from those old hoppers though, and it looks good. Doesn't have as good of a battery life as a Pinokio, Rotor, or Torque. Has 240 round shell upgrade.

Weight:
BPS:
Profile (taller and bigger is worse):
Capacity (higher is better) : 1
Likeliness to not break paint (or adjustability): ?4
easiness to break down and clean (quick and toolless is best):
Likeliness of a jam: 4
Likeliness to have the shell break: 4
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue: 1
Battery life: 3
Total  /40

Torque-constantly spins, and slips if there is resistance by balls not feeding, while turned on and makes some noise, but hasn't jammed on me. Still using batteries from 2008, but I haven't used it much. Low profile. I think the shells on this are extremely durable, since most cracks happen where there are screws and it it toolless. The shells are more durable than the than Halo and Pinokio. Unfortunately the company is out of business, so new shells would be hard to find if you ran over it with a dump truck.

Profile (taller and bigger is worse):
Capacity (higher is better) ~160: 1
Likeliness to not break paint (or adjustability): 4
easiness to break down and clean (quick and toolless is best): 4
Likeliness of a jam: 4
Likeliness to have the shell break: 5
Battery life: 4
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue:Total  23/35

Vlocity Jr w Gangstar chip-You can set the settings to be less of battery hogs than constantly grinding like the stock board. Has a high profile, higher than a Pinokio, though shorter in the back than a Pinokio, and with less capicty. Large mouth for feeding balls. 180 ball capacity. shells and feedneck crack after use..

Profile (taller and bigger is worse):
Capacity (higher is better):
Likeliness to not break paint (or adjustability):
easiness to break down and clean (quick and toolless is best):
Likeliness of a jam:
Likeliness to have the shell break:
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue:Total  /35

Vlocity-smaller mouth but 190 ball capacity

Fasta-Bend sensor
 at 30BPS (there is a slower 20+ bps Fasta as well). Operates with a bend sendor like the Pinokio. It is pretty cheap, but I'm not sure if it has the same warranty. Thin plastic feedneck is known to crack.



Halo B-Uses Eyes
Pros: used in some top tournaments around 2004ish. Fast with the right board. Has rip drive to use when batteries were dying, which I liked.
Cons: Shells cracked easily. Heavy. Jammed too often. Poor-mid battery life.

Profile (taller and bigger is worse):
Capacity (higher is better):
Likeliness to not break paint (or adjustability):
easiness to break down and clean (quick and toolless is best):
Likeliness of a jam:
Likeliness to have the shell break:
Likeliness customer support will fix an issue:Total  /35

Empire B-Sound activated




Hoppers I've used

Torque

The good: What would you want in a hopper? One that doesn't jam, but has a reverse button just in case, has toolless disassembly of very few pieces, and has a thick plastic that is not as likely to crack as most other hoppers, and great battery life.

The bad: Although toolless, the Torque is kind of hard to disassemble because you have to push a button inside the hopper and flex the back plastic around some other plastic nubs, but it will likely get easier with practice. It also ALWAYS spins and makes noise you can hear from up to 3 feet away when turned on. The wheel intentionally slips when the balls aren't being shot out, and you can hear the motor whir it a little, so if you rely on super stealth... that may concern you. It is probably a bit heavier than the Vlocity Jr and Halo/Empire due to the thicker plastic (which I'm fine with if that means it won't crack).

It has no eyes, but doesn't need them due to its simplicity, and has good reviews. Good luck getting one though since they are discontinued. No spring to hold the plastic door open. Not a huge deal though. I have had two 9 volt batteries in this hopper for 4 years, only using them a hand full of times, but they are still going strong. I deduct that the battery draw when off is super low, which I like.

$25 used


Vlocity Jr. with Gangstar chip upgrade

The good: One of the lightest hoppers on the market. The Gangstar chip has a bunch of adjustable settings that, among other things like BPS speed selection, allows the motor to turn off after 12 seconds when balls aren't being fed to reduce battery consumption and eliminate hopper motor noise when not in use. Clear feedneck lets you know if a ball is about to be fed.

The bad: It is lightweight because of thin plastic, thin plastic which breaks. There are a lot of screw and nuts held by thin plastic which breaks. There are lots of small screw holes for paint to get into, so cleaning it can sometimes be annoying. The stock Vlocity and Vlocity Jr. boards (non Gangstar) allegedly eat your 9 volt batteries. My feedneck got a crack in it from a feedneck clamp being too tight, but the plastic is strong enough there for me not to worry.

It is one of the lightest hoppers, however, I don't like how easily the shells on this loader break due to the thin plastic. I've had nuts and screws come out and the plastic crack, which I patched up with super glue. However, I do REALLY like the performance of this loader which is customizable with the Gangstar chip. I have it set up to spin at 15 BPS because guns are capped at 13. The faster it spins, the more likely balls will popcorn, around inside which would be bad. I also have it set to turn off and not spin and use the battery when balls are not moving for more than 5 seconds. So it is quiet enough for woodsball. The loudmouth is larger than the standard small lid, so fewer balls fall out when filling with a pod. It does have a high profile though which may make it a little easier to get shot. I had a jam one time and I just had to shake it a bit.

You need a screwdriver to take this apart and paint can get in all the screw holes. The clear feedneck is cool, so you know if there is a ball there, also has a superficial crack in the plastic in mine and many others. Even if it is held together with duct tape, I'll still really like this hopper. I'd pick up another used one without cracks in a heartbeat for $20 if I could, if someone else would sell it. I have the Gangstar 1 chip and have no reason to upgrade to Gangstar v2. I know Select Force is also a popular upgrade. There are small pieces to loose, like nuts, screws, and the ever annoying spring to keep the door open until it is slammed shut. Not an issue if you use a speed feed.

Common modifications include black electical or duct tape on the front to hold the shell together because the plastic breaks. People also saw off a part of the feedneck for a lower profile. There are speedfeeds people add. There are two mouth sizes. I have the larger one and liked it, at least until the shell broke apart during a game.

$25-40 used

Pinokio

The good: Large ball capacity and super large capacity with the nose cone. Stronger plastic than Vlocity and Halo B. Great battery life. A person I talked to that used it said it has worked great for him.

The bad: My internals broke under normal use. It has a huge profile.

I wanted to like this hopper though it had a large profile. It feeds balls when a ball pushes back a tab stuck at a 45 degree angle in the feedneck and the tab flips back up. I found this system not to be reliable. The plastic of the hopper seemed fine though.

$50 used


Halo B

The good: I liked that it had the rip drive upgrade to manually feed balls if the batteries died. Happened once. it was kind of an experience. I lost to the guy who didn't have to break to spin it though. You can buy them cheap used.

The bad: The shells crack. There are a lot of small nuts, screws, and springs. Cleaning it can be annoying since you have so many screws and screw holes which can attract paint. It would jam occasionally.

Borrow it if you have to, but I wouldn't buy it. Too much maintenance and not enough plastic durability and paint feed reliability.

$20-35 used


Empire B

Same pros and cons of the Halo B except it had better battery life because it only spun once it heard a shot fired. Supposedly some quiet guns, some spool threads, didn't trigger it sometimes though according to a friend. This is about on par with the Halo, maybe better if you like better battery life and have a gun that makes it fire.

$25-35 used


Egg

Pros: cheap
Cons: Awkward, large profile, plastic can break


Standard 200 round gravity fed hopper

Pros: $5, no batteries, can take a beating, can get wet.
Cons: You may have to shake it to get the balls to come down. Can't shoot too fast or else the balls will get stuck until you shake everything. Usually works fine for the Tippman 98.

Using a gravity fed on an electronic marker can be annoying because you will have to shake it the entire time to make sure balls feed. Generally fine if you are just shooting a few shots at a time with a Spyder or Tippmann, but not for anything too competitive.

--

The Virtue Spire seems to be an expensive, but good option that rivals the Dye Rotor. It claims to not break fragile paint, feed quickly, and be easy to dissaemble.


I haven't used the Dye Rotor, but people that use it like it. It is a little heavier, but has a low profile, is great on battery like, 50,000 rounds supposedly. It is often times rated as the best hopper.
It is expensive though. $100 used, $180 new.

Prophesy-sound activated, proactive

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=720187


Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Paintball barrel selection

Mike from Techpb.com had some thoughts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=NwN03gMASew

Barrels impact the gun performance a lot. Tech PB likes these barrels in Florida where it is hot and humid.

Boring a ball is when you take a paintball and place it in several barrels until you find one where it it just large enough to get stuck about half an inch down the back of the barrel (off the gun).  This is the traditional way of picking a barrel since it uses less air in the long run since air is not escaping around the sides of the balls.

The case can be made that traditional boring isn't good because some balls later on will be compressed and more oblong instead of circular or swell throughout the day. If they get stuck in the barrel, they can explode in the barrel. When that happens, the paint gets on balls that come out and causes them to become innacurate for quite some time. Shooting though it doesn't always clear it out. You have to clean out your barrel with a barrel swab or squeegee.

Industry standard is .689. (Balls can break inside it though.) Traditional boring may have you select around this size.

Planet Eclipse uses .693 and people like their barrels.
BobLong Marq .691
 Dye UL Two piece .692
.693 CP 1 Piece 14"
.694 Bob Long Marq two piece (if humid)

Overboring means less broken paint. Oblong balls are less likely to break.

If you bore in the morning, and it gets warmer, the balls will get larger.
overboring means better consistency, though a bit less air efficient.
The Pros overbore.

12-14" barrels are the standard. Longer than that, like a 16", and the ball may just be bouncing around.

-----------

Unicycles


Unicycles come in different sizes.

Small wheels are good for precision movements. Big wheels let you travel faster, which is helpful in a parade.

Torker's 20" wheel on the Unistar DX will fit a 26"-32" inseam
Torker's 24" wheel on the Unistar DX will fit a 29.5"-35.5" inseam
http://www.torkerusa.com/bikes/unicycles/2012-unistar-dx


Some unicycles with large rims/wheels and thin tires are good for faster speed. These unicycles are generally around $100-$250.

Unicycles with smaller rims/wheels and super fat tires are better for bouncing and doing tricks. I rode a Torker DX and was able to jump quite a bit on it because the wheel was way fatter than most other unicycles.

The Torker DX retails at $329 and $349. A dealer said it costs them $230 and they have to pay shipping to the store. I have heard that the rim can taco if you land a large jump and the rim is hard to replace. I saw this new on eBay for $279 with free shipping.

I looked at a forum and 'Hunter' and 'Kris Holms' were also brands that were mentioned.